And then what we're going to do is we're goingto use a pinching dowel and what i have done onto the ends of these pinching dowels isI have put on some of the paper from the file.
So I have basically ripped it off, so I havejust gone from this end here, that was on there once upon a time, peeled that off, cutit up.
And I'll show you how to do one now.
While that sets up a little bit, so you'regoing to use this one, and what you need to do, I'm just going to cut it slightly straighter,it doesn't need to be perfectly straight, and you're going to wrap it round, guesstimatewhere it's going to finish, just snip that and you can cut it.
Wrap it round again justto double check and then we're going to put a little bit of nail glue on the end of thispinching dowel and I'm going to wrap it round, watch your fingers, you don't want to getstuck to it.
Use a pair of tweezers, that will help it adhere.
So we're going to goback to the nail now, now we can give this a bit of a pinch, so we're going to go onwith the pinching tool.
Pinch it a little bit, But we're actually at the point where we can take this off and pinch it withit off, and that's what you want to do.
So if we look at the curve under here now, we'regoing to match this curve and make it even more tubular.
So with the other end, not theend that you put the paper on but the other end, pop that underneath, wrap it round, becauseyou've still got a little bit of play, still a little bit of movement with this product,it's not completely set yet, so you can pinch it around the dowel.
What you need to do iswatch the hyponychium underneath the nail.
When you pop that down, make sure you're notpushing back with the dowel.
Just wrap it round, the heat from your fingers will helpset the product up also, check your curves, nice and tubular.
Just going to pop this backon, you can put your pinching dowel underneath like this and then put your pinching toolon.
It's a little bit fiddly but you can do it.
Or you can go from underneath, howeveryou want to do it and you can leave that there, it's just a good little clamp to clamp inthat curve, make sure it's perfect before you leave it, don't just think, oh that willdo and go on to the next finger, check that it's creating what you want it to create.
Lets have a look at this now.
Ok, we want this to be completely dry before we file it.
Now we have pretty much done like a one to one ratio, different competitions have differentrules, so we measure from here to here, we've got a 23mm nail bed extension, on the sidewe've got 29, nearly 30mm and here we've got 11mm.
We're going to file this now, same routine,side walls, nice and straight, both sides, do not anchor the file up, keep it nice andflat so it is perfectly in line, so don't anchor it up like this because you will eatinto this part of the smile line, keep it nice and flat.
So run it perfectly flat.
Cuticlearea, nice and soft, softly does it because you do not want to obliterate that moon.
Youcan soften it, it doesn't matter if it's soft as long as it's there and you don't totallyfile it away, try not to get carried away with making it so flush that you have no moonleft, so make sure when that file is on there you're really angling the file in.
So you'rejust skipping across that section right at the cuticle area, and when you come rounddon't get too file happy on the corners of your smile line.
I'm just whipping acrossthe top of that moon, I'm just going to straighten up that free edge for a second, I will comeback to that at some point.
Now we're going to do the entire length of this nail, by doingthis, and I'm rotating the finger as I do it, I'm still keeping an eye on this.
Everytime that file moves I'm watching how much it's removing and how much it's refining thatsurface.
This needs to be as thin as a business card, just going to dust a little bit , justso I can see exactly what I'm working with here.
File that end down a little bit.
Andsometimes you can't see it but you can feel it, so you're going to rub your thumb up anddown and you'll feel any imperfections that are there and then you can use your file toaddress that, so just dust over.
We're going to buff that cuticle area first, just wantto make sure that's bob on.
Just dust that again, so you can see you've got your moonhere, the highest point of your smile lines are equal, so if you drew a line straightacross you would get a perfect line, can see with this dowel a little bit better.
So youcan see it matches from side to side, a deep smile line, but from the side view you cansee it has a nice curve, it's not too pointy.
And then if we look at this side view of thenail you can see the apex sneaking up straight out of the cuticle in the back third of thenail, nice high point, from that high point we're going straight out, see? With the c-curve,you've got a great bit whopping c-curve there.
And what we're going to do is make that eventhinner at the end, so with those tools that we played with earlier, so you can see thatfits, support the nail and run it underneath, watch what you're doing all the time, youdon't want to break it, you're supporting this, it's going to give it a nice curve andit's also going to thin out that edge, you can do it slowly if you want, I like to giveit a quick, fast motion, and slightly slow it down.
Make sure you've not disturbed theshape, so before we top coat it we're going to wipe over with acetone.
This is a goodlittle trick, this dissolves the top layer and makes it even smoother, which is greatif you're going to buff it to a high shine, make sure there's no debris anywhere, thenwe're going to top coat this with the mega gloss sealer gel.
Bouncing as close as I canto the cuticle without touching it, and coming through the entire length, you want to putit on as thin as you can because you don't want to bulk out the nail but you want toput it on thick enough so you get a nice, a real nice shine.
Don't cap the edge becauseyou will only bulk it out, let that self level a little bit.
And then we can go into thelamp, put that in for two minutes.
So that's dry, got a nice high shine on that now, I'mjust going to pop a little bit the passion fruit cuticle oil, pop that on just roundthis cuticle area, replenish that skin.
So you can see, have a look at that structureagain, and you can see this c-curve here, this is equal, equal, nice deep smile, youdon't want to see a straight line from your side view, you don't want to see a completestraight line, so you can see how that curves, some people chevron it that much that allyou can see from the side view is a straight line, you want to be able to see this curvehere.
So you want it to come nice and steep and then curve.
Apex, back third, straightout, nice and straight, everything is nice and straight, you've got a really good c-curvethere as well so it's nice and pinched.
So you've got a really big c-curve 50%, if wehad another one underneath you would have a full circle, nice and deep.